Step into the world’s largest car-free urban area, where centuries-old traditions still pulse through narrow alleyways and ancient architecture tells stories of a glorious past. The medina of Fez, Morocco stands as a living museum, captivating visitors with its authentic medieval atmosphere.
This UNESCO World Heritage site houses over 9,000 winding streets filled with bustling markets, historic monuments, and architectural masterpieces. While the maze-like medina might seem overwhelming at first, five remarkable locations stand out as must-visit spots that capture the essence of this imperial city.
Let’s explore these carefully chosen locations, each offering unique experiences from dawn to dusk, helping you discover the true spirit of Fez while capturing perfect photos along the way.
The first rays of sunlight paint the sky as the ancient medina of Fez stirs to life at Bab Bou Jeloud, the magnificent gateway that marks the entrance to the old city. This neo-Moorish masterpiece, built in 1913, showcases intricate tilework in blue and green, with three symmetrical horseshoe arches that frame the entrance to the medieval world beyond.
Early morning offers the perfect opportunity to capture the gate’s splendor without the usual crowds. The soft dawn light illuminates the detailed geometric patterns and calligraphy that adorn this architectural gem . As the sun rises, position yourself to capture both sides of the gate – its striking blue facade on one side and emerald green tiles on the other.
Step through the archway as the morning market springs to life. The cobbled streets fill with vendors setting up their stalls, creating a tapestry of colors and aromas . Local shopkeepers arrange barrels of olives, fresh produce, and morning breads, while early birds negotiate their daily purchases. The beauty of dawn shopping lies in its authenticity – you’ll witness genuine market interactions as residents collect their daily essentials .
The area around Bab Bou Jeloud offers some of the most authentic morning dining experiences in Fez. Start your day like a local with traditional harcha – a warm semolina bread served with spicy relish and olives . The morning atmosphere is enhanced by:
The morning market scene perfectly captures daily life, as customers known to vendors by name make their purchases, some paying with coins from small purses, others taking items on credit – a testament to the enduring community spirit of Fez
Standing as a testament to centuries of scholarly pursuit, Al-Qarawiyyin holds the distinguished honor of being the world’s oldest continuously operating university, recognized by both UNESCO and the Guinness World Records .
Founded in 859 by the visionary Fatima al-Fihri, this remarkable institution began as a mosque before evolving into a leading center of Islamic education . The complex now houses a mosque, university, and library, forming the spiritual heart of Fez’s medina. Today, the university continues its legacy of excellence, offering programs in Islamic religious and legal sciences, with particular emphasis on Classical Arabic grammar and Maliki law .
While the mosque remains reserved for Muslim visitors, there are several prime spots to capture its magnificence:
The recently restored Al-Qarawiyyin Library stands as a treasure trove of knowledge, housing over 4,000 rare manuscripts . The library showcases remarkable pieces including a 9th-century Quran written on leather with Kufic calligraphy. Following extensive renovations completed in 2016, the library now features:
A state-of-the-art laboratory for manuscript restoration Climate-controlled rooms to preserve ancient texts Digital scanning facilities to make these precious works accessible to future generations
The surrounding book markets echo the scholarly atmosphere, with vendors selling traditional texts and modern works alike. The area maintains its historical connection to learning, as students from across Morocco and Muslim West Africa continue to seek knowledge within these ancient walls.
The library’s recent restoration, overseen by architect Aziza Chaouni, has carefully balanced preservation with modernization, incorporating solar panels and digital security systems while maintaining the building’s historical integrity .
The ancient stone vats of Chouara Tannery paint a mesmerizing picture of Morocco’s leather-making heritage, with their honeycomb pattern of dye-filled vessels creating a living artist’s palette in the heart of Fez’s medina.
Late afternoon, around 5 PM, offers the perfect balance between activity and crowd levels at the tannery For the most spectacular views, head to Shop Number 10 on Derb Chaouwara, widely recognized as the premier vantage point . Upon arrival, you’ll be offered a sprig of mint – an essential companion for managing the distinctive aromas that have characterized this ancient craft for centuries .
The tannery’s traditional methods have remained largely unchanged for over 1,000 years, using entirely natural ingredients. Here’s how raw hides transform into Morocco’s famous leather:
The entire process relies solely on manual labor, with no modern machinery involved, preserving techniques that date back to medieval times.
While the tannery offers an impressive array of leather goods – from jackets and bags to poufs and wallets – shopping requires strategic negotiation. Quality leather jackets typically range from $100-$130 USD, while leather poufs should cost between $75-$100 USD 15.
Shopping Tips:
For the best value, consider shopping in the medina’s smaller leather stores rather than directly at the tannery shops, where prices tend to be inflated. Remember that authentic leather goods from Fez are renowned for their water resistance and durability, thanks to the natural tanning process.
As the afternoon sun begins to soften, the rhythmic symphony of hammers echoes through Place Seffarine, where master craftsmen have shaped copper into art for centuries. This small triangular plaza, recently recognized as a UNESCO intangible heritage site in 2023 17, stands as a testament to Fez’s enduring craft traditions.
The square comes alive with the methodical tapping of maalems (master craftsmen) working their copper pieces into intricate designs. These artisans transform raw metal into everything from delicate teapots to elaborate lamps, using techniques passed down through generations. A massive tree provides shade as they work, their practiced hands moving with precision born from years of experience .
The craftsmen create an impressive array of items:
Just off the square, Abdullah Touati’s historic tea counter has been serving locals and travelers since 1969 . His signature blend combines:
All herbs are grown on the outskirts of the city, creating a truly local experience for just 10 MAD per glass . The small café offers low plastic stools piled with cushions, perfect for watching artisans take their afternoon breaks.
As day turns to dusk, the square takes on a magical quality as lantern light reflects off the polished copper surfaces. For photographers, the late afternoon light creates perfect conditions to capture:
The interplay of shadows and light across the ancient walls Artisans at work against the golden hour backdrop The contrast between modern life and ancient traditions
A rooftop café near the square offers an elevated perspective of the coppersmiths’ quarter, where you can sip mint tea while watching the sun paint the sky in copper hues. The combination of traditional craftsmanship and fading daylight creates an atmosphere that perfectly encapsulates the timeless spirit of Fez’s medina.
The rising cost of raw materials and modern market pressures threaten this ancient craft , making each visit to Place Seffarine not just a tourist stop, but a witness to living history. The square serves as both an open-air workshop and a showcase of Moroccan excellence, where every hammer strike echoes centuries of tradition .
Twilight transforms the magnificent Bou Inania Madrasa into a captivating display of light and shadow, offering visitors a unique perspective of this architectural masterpiece built in 1350-55 CE .
As darkness settles, carved cedar wood elements cast intricate shadows across the marble-paved courtyard . The madrasa’s stunning features take on a different character:
The evening ambiance perfectly highlights the building’s status as the largest and most important madrasa created by the Marinid dynasty.
The madrasa welcomes visitors daily except Fridays, with operating hours from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM. For the most serene experience, plan your visit during these optimal times:
The entrance fee is modest at 30 dirhams per person . While access is limited to the central courtyard, this restriction helps preserve the madrasa’s role as an active educational institution .
The madrasa’s unique status as both an educational center and congregational mosque makes it a focal point for cultural activities. The building’s exceptional acoustics enhance traditional performances, particularly during the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music .
The courtyard serves as a serene backdrop for evening gatherings, with its fountain drawing water directly from the Oued Fes river. The space creates perfect acoustics for spiritual performances, enhanced by the architectural elements that have remained virtually unchanged since their creation.
Architectural Highlights visible in evening light include: The minaret rising above the northwestern corner, a rare feature among Moroccan madrasas The horseshoe arch doorway on Tala’a Kebira street, adorned with intricate stucco work The cedar wood ceiling carved with elaborate muqarnas in the vestibule
The madrasa’s evening atmosphere evokes a sense of peace and contemplation, offering visitors a chance to appreciate the refined decoration that echoes the style of the slightly earlier Madrasa al-‘Attarin . The soft lighting emphasizes the building’s most striking features: the dark cedar woodwork, classic zellij tilework, and revelatory stucco designs .
As night falls, the illuminated structure stands as a testament to Sultan Abou Inan’s vision – so magnificent that he reportedly threw the construction accounts into the river, declaring “a thing of beauty is beyond reckoning.
