Dating back to the 11th century, Chouara Tannery stands as one of the oldest and largest leather tanneries in the world. This iconic landmark in Fez, Morocco, offers visitors a glimpse into traditional leather-making techniques that have remained unchanged for nearly a thousand years.
The sight of countless colorful dying pits, the distinct aroma of the tanning process, and the bustling activity of skilled craftsmen make the Chouara Tannery a must-visit destination. However, getting the most out of your visit requires some insider knowledge and careful planning.
This comprehensive guide walks you through everything you need to know about visiting the tannery – from choosing the best viewing spots and understanding local customs to finding quality leather products and avoiding common tourist traps.
Making the most of your visit to Chouara tannery requires careful timing and preparation. Let’s break down the essential planning elements to ensure you have an enriching experience.
The ideal seasons to visit are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when the weather is mild and perfect for exploring 1. The tannery operates daily from 8 AM to 7 PM 2, though you’ll find the most activity during morning hours.
For the best experience, plan your visit between 9 AM and 11 AM when the artisans are most active. Keep in mind that Fridays may have limited access during prayer times 2. If you’re sensitive to the distinct tannery aromas, consider visiting during the cooler morning hours 3.
Your choice of footwear is crucial when visiting the tannery. Wear closed, water-resistant shoes you don’t mind getting dirty – the ground can be wet and muddy from the tanning process 4. Here’s what to bring:
When you arrive, you’ll be offered a sprig of mint – accept it! This traditional offering helps manage the strong odors from the tanning process 3. While it might seem unusual, you’ll appreciate this aromatic assistance during your visit.
While there’s technically no official entry fee for the Chouara tannery 3, you should expect some costs. The viewing terraces are part of leather shops, and there’s an informal system of tips and fees.
For terrace views, a reasonable tip ranges from 20 to 50 MAD per person 4. Be wary of anyone quoting higher prices – some might ask for 200 MAD, which is excessive 2. If you’re interested in a ground-level tour, expect to pay around 20 MAD for a guided experience 5.
Pro tip: Always agree on any fees before proceeding with a tour or terrace visit. Some shopkeepers might claim the terrace view is free initially but then demand payment afterward 5. Stick to your budget and don’t hesitate to negotiate politely.
Located in the heart of Fes el Bali, finding your way to Chouara tannery requires some strategic navigation through the medina’s winding streets. Let me guide you through the most reliable routes to reach this historic site.
The tannery sits near the Oued Fes (Fes River), in the oldest part of the medina 1. Look for signs pointing to Derb Chaouwara, where you’ll find the main entrance. The most notable viewing point is at door number 10, though several other entrances offer similar vantage points 4.
You have two main options to reach the tannery:
The Scenic Route: Start from the iconic Blue Gate (Bab Bou Jeloud) and follow Tala’a Kbira street. This walk takes about 20-25 minutes 1. While longer, this route lets you experience the medina’s charm. Follow these markers:
The Direct Route: Enter the medina from the side closest to Lalla Yedounna Square, near the river. This route offers easier access and is ideal if you’re short on time 6.
By Taxi:
Public Transport: Fez is well-connected to other major Moroccan cities 1. If you’re coming from outside Fez, you can:
Pro Tips: While many locals will offer to guide you, it’s best to rely on your phone’s map or follow the posted signs 1. The distinctive smell of the tanning process can actually help guide you in the final stretch – just follow your nose! Remember, you don’t need to pay anyone for directions, despite what they might tell you 1.
When you reach Chouara tannery, you’ll face several choices that can significantly impact your experience. Let’s explore your options to help you make the best decision.
The tannery offers two distinct viewing experiences. Terrace views provide a bird’s-eye perspective of the entire tanning process, showcasing the colorful dye vats from above 8. These views come through leather shops surrounding the tannery, where you can observe the entire operation safely.
Ground level access gives you a more intimate look at the tanning process. While some tourists stick to terrace views, exploring the ground level lets you see details you’d miss from above 9. However, be prepared for stronger odors and more rugged conditions at ground level.
For the best terrace views, head to these verified spots:
While shops advertise “free viewing terraces,” understand that a small gesture is expected. A tip of 5-10 MAD (around 50 cents to 1 USD) is appropriate if you don’t purchase anything 10. Some shops might pressure you for more, but stand firm – viewing is officially free 10.
You have three main options for touring the tannery:
Official Guides: Professional guides typically charge 40-50 USD for a half-day tour 11. While pricier, they offer comprehensive knowledge and can help avoid scams.
Shop Owners: Many leather shop owners will explain the tanning process from their terraces 8. They’re knowledgeable but expect you to browse their merchandise.
Tannery Workers: These guides know the process intimately and typically won’t pressure you to buy anything 9. However, agree on a price beforehand – around 20 MAD is standard for ground-level access 1.
Important Tips:
Remember, while some pressure to buy leather goods is common, you’re never obligated to make a purchase. Focus on enjoying this unique glimpse into traditional Moroccan craftsmanship.
While exploring the historic Chouara tannery can be fascinating, being prepared for common challenges will ensure a smoother experience. Let’s explore how to handle typical situations you might encounter.
Respect is paramount when visiting this working tannery. The artisans here maintain centuries-old traditions, and their workspace deserves appropriate consideration. Keep in mind that the tanning industry significantly impacts workers’ health 12, so maintain a respectful distance from active work areas.
As you approach the tannery, you’ll likely encounter people offering to show you around. While some guides provide valuable insights, it’s crucial to establish clear terms upfront. Never accept “free” offers – they often lead to uncomfortable situations later 9.
Here are key warning signs to watch for:
The standard rate for legitimate guides is 20-50 MAD (2-5 USD) 1. If someone quotes a higher price, politely decline and move on. Remember, you’re never obligated to continue with a guide who makes you uncomfortable 13.
The most frequent scam involves “helpful” locals directing you to specific leather shops. While viewing terraces are genuinely part of the experience, some shops use aggressive selling techniques. Stand firm if pressured to buy – a simple “no thank you” should suffice 4.
When visiting the tannery, keep these points in mind:
If you find yourself in an uncomfortable situation, it’s perfectly acceptable to walk away. Most legitimate guides and shop owners respect clear boundaries and won’t pursue aggressive tactics 13. For the safest experience, consider researching specific leather shops in advance rather than accepting random guidance 13.
The bustling leather shops surrounding Chouara tannery offer an impressive array of handcrafted products, from butter-soft jackets to traditional babouches. Before you start shopping, let’s explore how to make informed purchases.
The tannery produces several types of leather, each with unique characteristics:
Quality Indicators: Authentic Moroccan leather should feel buttery soft and showcase rich, saturated colors 4. The leather undergoes traditional processing using natural dyes – indigo for blue, saffron for yellow, poppy flower for red, and henna for orange 4.
Bargaining is essential at Chouara tannery, and prices can vary significantly based on your negotiation skills. Start by offering 50% of the initial asking price 16. Here’s a proven strategy:
Price Expectations: A quality leather jacket typically settles around 1800 dirhams (approximately $180) 4. Buying multiple items or shopping as a group often leads to better discounts 4.
The leather goods from Chouara tannery are exported worldwide 12, and most shops offer shipping services. If you’re interested in custom items, many craftsmen can create pieces to your specifications within 24 hours 4.
Custom Orders: The shops employ skilled tailors who can modify existing pieces or create new ones from scratch 17. For instance, they can replicate specific jacket designs using local goat or lambskin 17.
Quality Assurance: Before finalizing your purchase, carefully examine items for:
Many shops around the tannery offer a wide selection of products, from practical items like wallets and belts to decorative pieces such as poufs and furniture 7. The leather products here represent centuries of craftsmanship, making them not just purchases but pieces of Morocco’s cultural heritage 18.
Remember, while the initial prices might seem high, buying directly from the tannery often means getting high-quality Moroccan leather goods at a fraction of international retail prices 4. Take your time exploring different shops, as prices and quality can vary significantly between vendors 5
